F.W. Lawrence Art Nouveau Carved Emerald Intaglio of Diana and The Three Graces Ring

This breathtaking Art Nouveau ring by F.W. Lawrence is a stunning testament to the golden age of American jewelry design at the turn of the 20th century. Based on its stylistic and technical characteristics, I believe it was crafted by Gustav Manz on behalf of F.W. Lawrence. Manz, a highly regarded sculptor and jeweler, was celebrated for his extraordinary craftsmanship and his ability to fuse classical motifs with the organic elegance of the Belle Epoque/Art Nouveau movement.

Handcrafted in 18-karat yellow gold, the shoulders of the ring are inspired by one of history's most enduring themes: The Three Graces. Likely influenced by Antonio Canova’s renowned marble sculpture, the design showcases these classical muses—Truth (Thalia), Beauty (Aglaea), and Joy (Euphrosyne)—depicted arm in arm, symbolizing unity and the gifts they bestow upon humanity. Above their heads, a bezel-set buff top emerald intaglio of the goddess Diana, the Roman protector of women and children and the goddess of the hunt. Diana is depicted in profile with upswept hair, wearing a flowing gown with her bow drawn before her.

The pairing of The Three Graces with Diana creates a symbolic piece that represents a balance of delicate beauty, strength and grace. This combination of mythological figures reflects the era’s celebration of nature, feminine ideals, and the harmonious fusion of classical themes with modern artistic expression. Circa 1905. Currently a size 7.5

Measurements: 13.8 mm north to south, sits 4.5 mm off of the finger.

Emerald: 9 x 5.5 x 5.02 mm - estimated 1.7 carats.

Mastering the art of gemstone carving is a lengthy journey, and emeralds are particularly challenging to work with. Carving emeralds requires a high level of skill and experience, as the stone's brittleness makes it prone to breaking under pressure, despite its hardness of 7.5-8 on the Mohs scale. The presence of internal inclusions in most emeralds further complicates the process, increasing the risk of fractures during carving.

Weight: 13 grams

Hallmarks: 18k, F.W. Lawrence 

Condition: The gold exhibits wear and softening to the figures, consistent with age. The emerald shows some surface wear. The ring was previously resized. 

History:

F. Walter Lawrence was a prominent American jeweler based in Newark, New Jersey, during the late 19th and early 20th centuries, a time when the city was a central hub for fine jewelry manufacturing. Known for his exceptional craftsmanship and artistic designs, Lawrence specialized in creating high-quality Art Nouveau and Edwardian jewelry. His work often featured classical and mythological motifs, organic forms, and intricate sculptural details, reflecting the aesthetic trends of the period. Collaborating with master artisans like Gustav Manz, a skilled jeweler and sculptor, Lawrence produced some of his most exquisite creations, which incorporated fine gemstones and carved intaglios. Though not as widely recognized as names like Tiffany & Co., Lawrence's pieces are highly prized by collectors for their technical precision, artistic vision, and timeless appeal, standing as a testament to the golden age of American jewelry design.

Gustav Manz played a crucial role in shaping F.W. Lawrence's jewelry designs, combining his exceptional skills as a sculptor and jeweler to create some of the era’s most captivating works. Trained in sculpture and metalwork in Europe, Manz quickly became one of New York’s most gifted artisan jewelers. Known for his remarkable ability to merge classical mythology with modern design, his creations often featured finely detailed, almost sculptural figures—whether goddesses, animals, or botanical motifs. Drawing from his European academic training, Manz embraced the fluidity of the Art Nouveau movement while retaining the elegance of classical antiquity. His works, revered for their meticulous craftsmanship, were highly sought after and earned him recognition at prestigious events such as the 1904 Louisiana Purchase Exposition and the Paris Exposition Universelle. Manz's pieces were often found in the collections of prestigious jewelers, including Tiffany & Co., Black, Starr & Frost, Marcus & Co., and F.W. Lawrence.