This exquisite archeological-revival bangle, attributed to Robert Phillips circa 1865, reflects the 19th-century fascination with ancient civilizations that captivated European jewelers.
The hinged bangle is decorated with Egyptian hieroglyphs in glossy black enamel culminating in an early jade intaglio with a covered lockets compartment to the reverse. Inscribed in Farsi, "ذات تو مظهر انعام سبحانی باد", the message translates to, "May your essence be a manifestation of divine blessings." A beautiful sentiment of well-wishing and hope for a positive and spiritually enriched existence. Hand fabricated in bloomed 15 karat gold, this bangle fits a petite 6" wrist.
This rare jewel exemplifies the archaeological-revival movement, which gained momentum as leading jewelry houses such as John Brogden, Carlo Giuliano, and Phillips Brothers drew inspiration from recent archaeological discoveries, and incorporated ancient symbols and techniques into their designs.
The Industrial Revolution played a crucial role in this tend. Advancements in jewelry-making such as casting and electroplating, enabled artisans to recreate intricate designs more efficiently and on a larger scale, while improved transportation and colonial expansion made exotic materials and gemstones more accessible.
Indian jewels, in particular, gained immense popularity in Europe, fueled by exhibitions like the 1851 Great Exhibition in London and the expanding British colonial presence in India. The rich symbolism and intricate craftsmanship of Indian jewelry influenced European designs, resulting in a fusion of Eastern and Western styles.
This bangle with its Egyptian motifs, Farsi inscription, and Western goldsmith techniques, showcases the era's cross-cultural appreciation for ancient and exotic aesthetics, making it a rare and historically significant jewel.
Weight: 28.1 grams
Markings: none
Measurements: 6" interior circumference, 1" widest point (face)
Notes: some losses to the enamel as shown